We’re officially on the Meseta, a geographic region that is Spain’s answer to southwest Kansas around Dodge City: fields of wheat and sunflowers as far as the eye can see, not many villages, even fewer trees. We know already that there will be days on this segment of the journey where we’ll go eight to 10 miles between villages, and thus eight to 10 miles without a clear place to stop for water. This continues for around 140 miles, although the region includes two major cities: Burgos and Leon.
Pilgrims seem to have four ways to approach the Meseta: Some skip it altogether, taking a bus from Burgos to Astorga. Others rent bikes to speed through the landscape. Those who walk start early — before sunrise, even — to log as many miles as possible before the heat and sun begin to take a toll. And some start early with only day packs, sending their heavy packs ahead to the next stop and carrying only the necessities.
At the moment, we’re part of that last group. Today’s 13 miles from Tardajos to Hontanas included a descent known as the Cuesta Matamulas, or mule-killing incline, as well as a fairly steep incline into Hontanas. With temperatures in the mid-80s, we took our time, drank plenty of water, and arrived safely.
Tomorrow will be the big test of our mettle: we’re scheduled for 24 miles. We’ll see how it goes.
The picture above, if the blog was working, was of Rich with the wide expanse of wheat fields. Thanks, Squarespace.
I have to admit, as I skidded on loose rocks on the mule-killing incline, I had visions of the TV news teasers: “American pilgrim killed on mule-killing road, film at 11.” I hoped that whatever reporter was sent to cover my demise would be wearing sensible shoes, because if she wasn’t, there could be two fatalities.